General Discussions

HI John,

Funny you should bring this up now!  I'm just going through the same project.  Which uncovered some seriously deferred maintenance issues...  

 

So, to removing the stops, mine are just screwed in and, for mine, a really good, large, flat head screw driver was the tool of the day.

 

However, one of mine was completely missing, the bronze reinforcing plates at the pin were missing a through bolt and were loose.  The block, mounted the board, was nearly unrecognizable as such.  Also, there seems to have been a leak for some time that got into the fiberglass and cause some corrosion on the backing plate that the block bolts to.  I think the moisture could have gotten through the bolt holes for the block, then the corrosion started, expanded and actually split the fiberglass, allowing more water in.  Just a theory though...  We also believe the backing plate for the block is aluminum.  Would love to know if anyone has any information on any of that.

 

I had the yard drop the board and they already made new bronze plates for the pivot point.  They're supposed to inspect the block anchor point today and get the repair button up by next week.

 

Danny

Thanks Danny ...

 

So ... these flat head screws ... are they fastened into the Keel from the side (horizontal) or from below (vertical) ?  No problem getting the screw driver in there with the Board in place ?  And are your Stops bronze or some kind of plastic ?

 

I remove the SS Plate on top of the Trunk every 6-7 years for service.  This year I replaced the Pennant, I went with 7/16" Sta-Set.  It has an eye splice around a Schaefer Low-Friction ring that goes around the Pin on the underside of the Plate.  From there down to a Schaefer Halyard Lifting Block on top of the Board.  From there back up to a Sheave (and I put in a new custom Sheave and Compression Sleeve from Ed at Zephyrwerks) on the underside of the Plate, and from there out through the SS CB Pipe that goes through the Mast.

 

I had a similar issue as you describe several years ago with the top of the Board splitting.  I removed the entire Board from the boat.  And rebuilt it.  That was quite a bit of work.  We dug into the top of the board and replaced all of that, with new filler and fiberglass.  Inserted new SS backing plates to take the bolts that hold the Halyard Lifting Block secure.  Like yours, I think the old backing plates were alum.  I wound up refinishing the entire Board, cleaned it all up, sanded down, several coats of Barrier Coating, then bottom paint.  All works nicely now.  I can give you more info and show you pictures if you like.

 

In lieu of the Schaefer Halyard Lifting Block on top of the Board, I have heard others have had made by a rigger an all SS block.  When I haul and drop the Board, we'll see how my Schaefer Block has held up after 10 years, but from what I could tell from looking at it through the top of the Trunk, it seems to be ok.  If not, I'm hoping a simple replacement of a new block will work out fine, remove the existing fasteners, install new block and fasteners, new bedding.

 

If you were to remove the Plate on top of the Trunk you can get a good view of the gear and the top of the Board.  My Board seems to be holding up fine.

 

Thanks, cheers, John

The plates are bolted in the the bottom of the keel, bottom up vertically on mine.  So, they have to be removed from under the boat.  Mine are made of SS.

 

I'll be replacing the block and the pennant this year.  I'll probably;y use the same as you.  Do you know how long the pennant needs to be?

Do you know how big the backing plate is?  is just a bit bigger than the block?  or the whole length of that part of the board.  My board is already out and not looking too bad.  They'll do the repair, fair it and bottom paint it.  The bottom of my boat is in amazing shape so I think a full barrier coat is unnecessary.  They will use one coat of barrier coat as a primer/binder then 2 coats of a color different from the 2 coats of final color.

 

I would love to see some pics!!!  Especially if it is if the repair!  I'll send them on the the yard manager.

 

I do have the plate in top off right now.

 

Danny

Hi John, 

Thanks so much for the info.  I tried to send you a private message but the system said you

Were not available.  My email is in my profile.  I'd rather not write it here.

Are you on the list serve on Yahoo?

There is a lot more activity there.

Danny

Also, would you have a part number for the low friction ring you used?

 

A thimble seems like it would be too big for the 7/16ths line.

 

I think I'm just going to have an eye spliced for this year and then swap it out next year for the eye.  I ordered the line 40' so I should be able to splice the bitter end and run the same line.

Danny ...

 

pop me an email to ... damonwells at aol dot com

 

or call me at (208) 788-0025

 

I used the Schaefer Low Friction ring for 7/16" line, not sure which that was, probably their 10mm.  And yes, I had a nylon thimble before, that seemed to be okay, but it was a bit elongated & big and got crushed a bit.  I like the low friction ring, but just now trying it, so can't say how this will do.

 

I don't use the Yahoo site, probably I should.

 

Cheers, John